There are some places in India where hand
painting on sarees is done, Kalamkari in Andhra Pradesh, Hand painted tribal
art of Chattisgarh and other locations to name a couple. Pen Batik is a more
universal practice but is also well appreciated.Kalamkari, meaning craftsmanship through the use
of a pen, is an ethnic art involving hand-painting or block printing on Sarees.
Two styles namely – the Machilipatnam style and the Srikalahasti style are still prevalent in Andhra Pradesh,
in places by these names. Kalamkari painting is an arduous process of dyeing
and hand printing. Several stages of washing and treatment to the fabric prior
to the painting and after it, is undergone before the final product is ready. SrikalahastiStyle, was influenced by Hindu scriptures and mythology. It mostly has subjects
of Gods, temple hangings, epic scenes and other religious themes, in its
‘Kalamkari’.
Certain marked features of this style are
simplicity, good use of colour with some colours given prominence, sharpness in
the depictions, and the use of motifs. The Machilipatnam style having Islamic
influence uses more of flora and fauna as themes in its work. Natural dyes are
employed for colours, in Kalamkari, with cotton, silk, crepe, georgette being
the usual fabrics as canvas for this art. Motifs with trees, creepers, flowers,
leaves, birds are popular.The hand painting
tribal ethnic art of Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Bengal and Orissa demonstrates the
fine craft executed with finesse.
The tribal artisans paint patterns, motifs,
scenes from the epics, tribal dancing, wedding scenes, ordinary village life,
animals, birds, floral designs and other subjects and themes on fabrics like
pure silk, cotton and sico. They transfer themes onto fabrics using locally
available materials, vegetable and organic dyes. They make use of elementary
methods of drawing and tracing on the fabric and then painting on them. The
beauty of such art lies in the craftsmanship in fine detailing, right colour
combinations, and extraordinarily neat finish that speaks volumes about their
unique skills.
Batik is a process
using ‘resists’ for making designs on a fabric. The resist or physical block
prevents desired areas on the fabric from being penetrated by dye. Generally
wax is used as a resist in Batik. The rarer type of Batik is Pen Batik. Fine
designs are made on the fabric using ‘Tjanting’ tools. Molten Wax at a certain
temperature is carefully put on the design lines with a Batik dropper pen. The fabric is then dyed in a small tub of
prepared colour dye. A lot of care has to be taken since too thin a layer of
wax could give way to colour dye through the surface cracks.
Temperature of the wax is normally kept
between 200 and 230 degrees. A small tub with hot water is generally preferred to
melt away the wax. After the wax has melted away in hot water, a neatly dyed and
designed fabric is available.The organic maroon colour Kalamkari TussarSilk Saree has been beautifully adorned by stories from the Panchatantra in
detailed hand painting with intricate Kalamkari painting design and floral
cream borders on either side. Hand painted hunting scenes with various animals
and birds like tiger, deer, peacock, eagle, the king and courtiers are in
multi-colour kalamkari adorn the pallu for a heightened effect. An exquisite
piece apt for grand occasions like weddings and parties.
The organic
shiny grey colour pure silk saree has multi-coloured tribal dancing women
distributed all over the fabric. It has floral weave painted borders on either
side all along. The designer pallu with incidents from Lord Krishna’s life such
as scenes from his childhood, scenes showing him surrounded by Gopis, the killing of asuras, with fine detailing
beautifully adorn the pallu. This designer sensation would do for weddings,
parties, social functions, traditional festivals and get-togethers.
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UNNATI SILK PRINTS PVT. LTD,#3-4-360, Vajra Complex, General Bazar (Tobacco Bazar), M.G.Road, Hyderabad-500003.AP,India.040-64555251 or 97000 57744.
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