Aari embroidery once patronized by Mughal Royals for the
elaborate and highly refined floral motifs is today a much practiced skill for
fashionable fabrics. Regions known for Aari embroidery are Hyderabad, Lucknow,
Delhi, Kutch, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh. Practised today by the cobbler
community in some regions, it still remains a fine art, the designs followed
still primarily those prevailing in Mughal times, with newer additions and the
work is still refined and flawless.
The Process of Aari embroidery
The main tool used in this
style of embroidery is the aari, a hooked needle, from which the style gets its
name. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs
can be highly representational. Aari embroidery is done by tightening the cloth
to be embroidered upon on a khatla (cot) or adda frame and then doing the
thread work on portions on the stretched cloth with an aari or crochet-hook
like instrument. The stitch that forms resembles a chain stitch.
The actual embroidery
involves pushing the needle through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed
into the hook. When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The
next time, the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop
through the previous loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very
fine and small.
The main advantage of Aari
is that it is very small and so intricate embroidery is possible. Beads,
sequins or small spirals of gold or silver wire may also be used in between to
add sparkle to the work. The whole process is done very fast, while maintaining
perfect tension of the thread. Several artisans may work on a single piece
together. This relieves the tedium of a big piece of work, which may take a
month to finish. It also allows slightly less experienced artisans to learn by
working on the borders and less intricate motifs.
After the embroidery, the
thread is beaten down or flattened using a wooden mallet from the top, with a
hand held wooden anvil placed under the fabric. This settles the thread and
gives the work a fuller and finished look. This process is only for zari work.
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