Jamdani or Jamdhani is a hand-woven technique of Bengal that creates patterns of various colours and designs on cotton or silk fabrics. Intending to improve the aesthetic appeal, it takes the form of cotton and gold thread weaving to create motifs of geometric patterns and floral designs in colourful hues. Jamdhani hand weaving is a necessary accompaniment for Bengal handlooms. There are at least six varieties of Bengal handlooms, each with its own distinctive style. The undisputed best in this range, is the Jamdani, which still continues to retain its original grandeur and sophistication. The original version is referred to as Daccai jamdani. There are classes of weave based on the motifs, the texture, the traditional borders and the colour combinations. So universal is the appeal, that today the Jamdhani is an inclusion in the making of some of the traditional varieties of cotton and silk handlooms, such as the Banaras, Venkatagiri, Uppada, Kanchipuram, Dharmavaram, and Mysore fabrics like sarees and salwar kameez.
Special appeal of the Jamdani Cotton salwar kameez
Some of the traditional motifs include Chameli–Jasmine and Gainda buti-marigold. The most attractive design feature of the jamdani fabric is the paisley motif. The Jamdani is a method by which the design motifs are added by hand during the course of the weaving, thus resulting in an embroidery effect. The method of production is somewhat similar to tapestry work.Small shuttles filled with coloured, gold or silver thread, are passed through the warp as required during the actual weaving of the basic fabric.There are several kinds of Jamdani muslins. Natural-coloured, unbleached cotton grounds with bleached white cotton supplementary work are traditional, while pastel-coloured grounds with white supplementary work and dark-coloured grounds (black, dark blue and dark red) with white supplementary threads are modern innovations.
Any of the above with coloured supplementary threads, or dark grounds with only zari supplementary work are also seen.
The Bengal Jamdhani cottons are categorized into
· Ordinary striped or checked Tangail
· Butidar Tangil or Jamdani with angular designs
· Bordered Tangil or Naksha Tangail made on Jacquard looms.
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Unnati Silks has a special range of Jamdani cotton fabrics that are distinctively colourful and eye-catching. Light hued kameez with block prints of floral designs, geometrical patterns, fancy designs on the one hand and lovely dark hued motifs well-distributed over the light coloured backdrop in exquisite patola weaving are suitably matched by plain or lightly adorned floral design salwars. The designer dupatta or chunni is either a continuation of the salwar or completely differing from the other two.
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